Installing Factory Electric Lockers Into a 1993 FZJ80 That Did Not Come With Them From The Factory:

(Also, installing the CDL Switch and Doing The 7Pin Mod)

DISCLAIMER:  THE INFO IN THIS WRITEUP IS BASED ON A Model Year 1993 FZJ80 that did NOT come with lockers from the factory!

WIRING AND OR OTHER VARIABLES MAY VARY FROM YEAR TO YEAR!!!!

I looked high and low for a decent FZJ80 with the factory lockers, and couldnt find anything with low miles and that was in decent shape for the amount of $ i wanted to spend.  I figured that for the type of wheeling and what my rig is going to be used for, the e-lockers werent needed right away and could wait.  I thought of doing the install but i dont like doing wiring AT ALL!  I came across a post from a fellow cruiserhead on www.ih8mud.com that he was parting out a COMPLETE FZJ80 with lockers.  I immediately replied that i wanted ALL parts needed to install these lockers into my rig and we struck a deal!  

The intriging part about this for me was that my 93 FZJ80 already had a lot of the wiring already there! (not sure of ALL non locker rigs have all the wiring already, so i wont make that statement), so that eased a huge amount of the stress of performing this job..

The wiring for the dash switch is there behind the blank panel in the dash, the wiring for the ECU was already there and just needed to be plugged into the ECU which has an intergrated bracket on it and mounts right up!

Parts i got from this salvaged rig (parts you need for the install):

Part #'s So Far

AGAIN, THE ABOVE INFO IS BASED ON MY 1993 FZJ80 that did NOT come with lockers from the factory!!!  WIRING MAY VARY FROM YEAR TO YEAR

I will break it down into a few sections and how to's for each section!

The first step i did was to add the dash switch and the indicator bulbs and sockets.  I pulled the plastic trim around the dash off and located the plug the diff switch plugs into (mine was buried down a bit but easily came up and was free):

Then i removed the dash to install the indicators:

Next was installing the E-Locker ECU.  This is a very simple "Plug and Play Deal" If you remove the passenger side kick panel, you get this:

Then you have to do this:

AGAIN, THE ABOVE INFO IS BASED ON MY 1993 FZJ80 that did NOT come WITH LOCKER FROM THE FACTORY!!!  WIRING MAY VARY FROM YEAR TO YEAR

Pretty easy huh?

Since i was in there, i decided to do the "CDL" switch upgrade!  This is done to manually overide the auto engaging and makes it push button so it can be used in High (with the 7pin mod).  This install is REALLY easy and only requires buying the switch and plugging it into the existing plug.  Info on the 7pin mod so it can be used in High can be found here: http://www.sleeoffroad.com/technical/tz_cdl_pin7mod.htm

Installing the actual locker was fairly simple.  The only "Hard" part is notching the housing so that is clears the actuator of the e-locker.  Here is a pic of my notch 

The above notch was done while the housing was still installed in the truck.  I used a 4 1/2" Grinder and it took about 30 mins.  To find out how much you need to remove, i suggest buying the diff gasket for the elocker equppied truck, installing it and tracing out the notch in it.  It will look similar to the above pic.

The passenger side axle shaft also needs to be swapped out for a shaft from a rig that had the elockers from the factory.  The elocker shafts has approx 4" of splines compared to the 2" of splines of the non elocker shaft.  I suggest finding one used from a wrecker, i located and bought a nice one using www.car-part.com for $70!  Sorry i cant get into more detail on this but my digi camera was stolen during this part of the writeup, so no pics were taken, sorry!

VERY IMPORTANT! MAKE SURE that you stuff rags or something into the tubes of the housing when you are doing the grinding because there will be tons of sparks filing and all of those sparks are tiny pieces of steel that will wreak havok on your new locker!  

When you are done grinding BEFORE EVEN TEST FITTING IT  MAKE sure that you clean the housing thouroughly!  I used magnets, brake cleaner, and a ton of rags.  No corners can be cut here, MAKE SURE you have all of the particles out before even test fitting.

Once your ready to test fit, try it without the gasket first to make sure that the gasket doesnt get ripped.  If it doesnt fit, grind some more and repeat cleaning process.  If it does fit, you are ready to swap out the studs.

4 Studs need to be installed because of the casting of the 3rd member on the locker diff.  It differes slightly from the non locker diff, but the holes all line up fine.  The stock washers and nuts work fine!

These 2 are 91mm long and are part # 90116-10124 and you need (2)

Photo Courtesy of "THE FERG"

These 4 blue circles show to the other 2 that need to be replaced.  

These 2 circled in blue are 51mm long and are part # 90116-10075 and you need 2

Photo Courtesy of "THE FERG"

AGAIN, THE ABOVE INFO IS BASED ON MY 1993 FZJ80 that did NOT come WITH LOCKER FROM THE FACTORY!!!  WIRING AND OTHER VARIABLES MAY VARY FROM YEAR TO YEAR

That is about it for installing the locker.  Once you have the notch cut inm the test fit complete, you have cleaned housing as much as humanly possibly, and these 4 studs replaced you are ready to install the locker.

Make sure the entire gasket surfaces on both the housing and the locker are clean, install the gasket in place making sure the notches all line up!  

NOW, CAREFULLY install the 3rd member onto the housing.  

There are a few stupid and preventable things that can very easily go wrong here, if you are trying to install this by yourself while the housing is in the truck.

    1- You can get the 3rd member onto a few of the studs and loose grip of it, causing it to bend the studs.

    2- You can very easily rip the gasket if you happen to do #1 or if the 3rd doesnt seat properly the first time.

I learned both of the above the hard way because i had to wrestle this montser into the truck by myself with no jack (friend was borrowing it).  The 3rd is VERY heavy and the weight is distributed very unevenly and it is awkward to hold and move around.  BE CAREFUL and do your best to get assitance lifting and lining this thing up with the studs!  If all of the studs arent PERFECTLY square to the housing it can be a bitch to line up.  Be patient and take your time, or you will be buying new gaskets!

Installed locker looks like this: (this is a picture of my actual locker, note the shiny new studs)

Next comes the final wiring.

The front is a simple plug and play, but the rear was not!

This is fairly simple, but was kind of a bitch to figure out.

The locker has 2 plugs on it.  One is a 2 wire plug for the Dash Indicator bulb and one is a 5 wire plug for the actual locker operation

Plug wires are as follows:

    Small 2 Wire Plug = White/Black Wire & Yellow/White Wire

• The White/Black wire is a ground and connects to the other White/Black wire from the larger plug.  Both are connected to a good spot on the frame as a ground.
• The Yellow/Black wire is the + wire for the indicator bulb.  This is part of the 5 wire harness that is run to the front of the truck and to the drivers side kick panel.

    5 Wire Plug = White/Black, Green, Green/Yellow, Green/Blue, Green and Black.

• The White/Black wire is a ground and connects to the other White/Black wire from the smaller plug.  Both are connected to a good spot on the frame as a ground.
• The rest of the wires are part of the 5 wire harness that is run to the front of the truck and to the drivers side kick panel.

AGAIN, THE ABOVE INFO IS BASED ON MY 1993 FZJ80 that did NOT come WITH LOCKER FROM THE FACTORY!!!  WIRING MAY VARY FROM YEAR TO YEAR

If you remove your drivers side kick panel, you will see a plug that has all female ends filled and the male end will be missing 5 spades.  The 5 wires that are run from the locker connect to these 5 missing spades and are inserted into the plug and your ready to go!  Here are some pics:

I butchered my spades from a spare harness i got as part of a package deal from KOFFER on ih8mud that was parting out this truck.  They can be purchased from Toyota and are referred to as OEM splices.  Get in touch with Cdan, and he can get these for you!  I also have a bunch of extras laying around that i could part with, let me know!

Here is a poor pic:

Running the wires from the locker to the front is a matter of self preference.  

There is a small grommet on the floor near the drivers side kick panel, i spliced a hole in that and ran my new harness out of the body there:

I am not happy with how i ran my harness, so i will be re routing them (possibly inside the truck)  so they dont get snagged under full flex.  Here are some pics of my crappy routing job:

AGAIN, THE ABOVE INFO IS BASED ON MY 1993 FZJ80 that did NOT come WITH LOCKER FROM THE FACTORY!!!  WIRING AND OTHER VARIABLES MAY VARY FROM YEAR TO YEAR.

In The Front, I swapped in an entire front housing (100% complete) from a locked rig and it was a simple plug and play setup.